Sunday, September 30, 2012

FRIENDS IN FIRENZE


Arrived in Firenze....Florence, yesterday. The week long drive thru Tuscany was nothing compared to the drive into the Florence airport.....all I will say is I NEVER want to do that again . After regrouping and debriefing, Jane, Donna, Tom and I checked into our fabulous B&B Residenza Johlea, and headed out to discover Florence. We found the Duomo, fabulous! We continued on thru town, wandering thru the San Lorenzo market, and over the Ponte Vecchio bridge.
This city is amazing and gorgeous at night. We had dinner on the other side of the bridge, at Ringo's bar, a little spot that serves famous burgers.....
And they lived up to their reputation. This morning we did a walking tour, with an English speaking guide. I thought things were going well, but wasn't sure about what she kept referring to as the Matterhorn, I thought maybe it was a museum I hadn't heard about. Then we saw some of the 25,000 Italians that were running today's Marathon, and I realized with her accent, I had misunderstood her.
It got real interesting when, trying to keep up with the tour, I started to cross the road, only to be stopped by a race Marshall, and there I was, surrounded by marathoners, all I could do was laugh and wait for a break in the action. I am sure a few runners are still cursing me. The highlight of the tour was our visit to the Galleria dell'Accademia, to view the statue of David. I am in no way, shape, or form, an art buff, but I was blown away by the beauty of this masterpiece.
We spent the remainder of the day, unfortunately, finding out how to get to our next destination, Lucca. I say unfortunately because the regional trains are planning a one day strike tomorrow, so we have to take the bus. All in the name of adventure, I say.....We say goodbye to Jane and Donna in the morning, as they are heading to Venice.....stay tuned

Thursday, September 27, 2012

San Giamangano

IL DOLCE FAR NIENTE

Arrived in Tuscany a couple days ago. Had a fabulous drive from Orvieto, meandering along the country roads. It is such beautiful, peaceful scenery. We stopped in Montalcino and walked around the Fortrezza, the 14th century fortress at the top of the hill. We carried on to our next destination, the little town of Panzano in Chianti. Our B&B is overlooking a valley, filled with vineyards and villas. The four

of us sat on the deck last night taking it all in. We are trying very hard to adopt the Italian way of life ... "Il dolce far niente ...The sweetness of doing nothing"... But there is so much to see that we are having to force ourselves to slow down. It is becoming easier each day.
Yesterday we visited Castellina, a town about 10km away, and lunched in Greve, another short drive. Tom and
I walked down the street to buy some cheese and salami from Dario Cecchini, the famous butcher of Panzano. We had heard he was quite entertaining. When we walked in the door, we were immediately handed a glass of wine. We sure dont have butcher shops like that back home! I asked if we could buy some of his
famous salami, but were told " we are closed, we are just giving stuff away now." He told us to help ourselves to the meat and cheese on the table and enjoy the wine, then off we went. Today we headed off to San Giamangano, a medieval town (3rd century) and arrived just before the rain. We caught the view from one of the 14 remaining towers.... Amazing.
We wandered around, checking out the market and shops, stopping for the best pizza yet. It was raining off and on most of the day, all the more reason to shop, I say! Regardless of the weather, there is still so much to enjoy. Might dampen the ground, but not our spirit.
Tonight Tom and I walked to a little restaurant in town, again passing by the butcher shop/ restaurant we had visited yesterday, and heard Dario the butcher singing to his customers. A great way to cap off a great day.

Monday, September 24, 2012

Orvieto Cathedral

In Assisi

FRIENDS, ROMANS, COUNTRYMEN, LEND ME YOUR GPS.....

Picked up our car yesterday in Rome and headed out on the road. Tom was driving, and now that we have got the hang of all the roundabouts and got out of Rome, he is really enjoying the roads( and turned into Mario Andretti). I cannot imagine how tourists managed without GPS, we would still be in Rome if it weren't for ours.
After checking into our fabulous B&B, we drove up to Civita di Bagnoregio. We walked the half kilometer bridge over to the little village of Civita, what an amazing little place. When you arrive, you pass thru an arch and on to what was once the main road to Rome. The Etruscans built it 2,500 years ago. I find it just mind-boggling when I am in a place this old, and think about how many lives have passed through these walls. It was an enchanting, beautiful spot. (so far I can only post pictures from my iPad, so there are not going to be too many good ones on here for now).
We ended our day with a great meal, cooked by our hosts at the B&B.

Today we headed out to Assisi, stopping in Todi first. Assisi was beautiful, The Basilica of St. Francis was a highlight. We toured the church, viewing the tomb of St. Francis, who died in 1226. His remains were very valuable, and The people of Assisi kept them hidden, for fear someone might try to steal them. When the cathedral was finally completed some 600 years later, no one really knew where the remains were, and it took over a month to locate them. It does make you wonder....but regardless, his spirit and story are there. We also heard the monks chanting, which gave us both goosebumps. The town is just full of amazing little streets shooting off everywhere, some so narrow you can almost touch each wall as you walk down the middle.  We ended our visit by sitting in the sun, in the square, enjoying a nice Italian beer.
We also made it to Orvieto this afternoon, taking the funicular up the hill, it is like a trolley or street car on tracks that goes up the hill on a 45 degree angle.. The cathedral in Orvieto is stunningly beautiful, the Gothic facade is divided by four pillars and the stained glass was just glowing. We saw it around 6:30 in the evening, in the most beautiful light. We ended our day with the best wood fire brick oven pizza and vino....i sampled the Orvieto Classico, and of course gelato for dessert.
Tomorrow we will make our way to our next stop, Panzana in Chianti.......stay tuned.


Saturday, September 22, 2012

MAMMA MIA IS ALIVE AND WELL AND COOKING AT DELL'OMO

We had an amazing dining experience last night. We ventured around the corner and down the street from our hotel to a little restaurant called DELL'OMO .......what a fabulous adventure. When we arrived, the door was closed and the place was dark, but we had been told it opened at 7pm, and knowing the Italian custom of later dining, we had waited until 7:03....we're getting the hang of these Italian customs. We pushed the door open, and called in, and saw something stirring at the back of the narrow restaurant. We walked in and the lights came on, and out shuffled Mama from the kitchen and started talking to us.......not a word of English, but made us feel very welcome. She took Donna into the kitchen to show her some trays of food, and the next thing we knew, we had wine on the table and we were watching her slice from the big leg of pork that was right behind Jane. Out came the prosciutto and melon........so good. Next came ravioli and spaghetti, unbelievable, then stuffed yellow pepper....to die for, and then Tiramisu like you have never had. When Mama's son brought the bill he also brought a bottle of liquer, none of us were too sure what it was but it was a gift, so we indulged. When we left, the place was packed. It was the best meal we have had so far, and just like it said in trip advisor, you felt you were in their home sitting at the kitchen table. Very special way to enjoy our last night in this amazing city. Stay tuned......

THE VATICAN

THE VATICAN

We spent this morning touring the Vatican. It is a pretty special place. The ceiling of the Sistine Chapel is incredible, with Michaelangelo's work.... Took him 4 years laying on his back painting...no wonder his neck was permanently damaged. He also lost the vision in one eye from paint dripping into it. We then visited St. Peter's Basilica and toured the catacombs below where the previous popes are entombed. The oldest one I noticed was from the late 1200's. This whole area is an absolutely amazing place to visit, but we all found it a bit overwhelming with information overload. After our tour, We took the metro to Villa Borghese Gardens and sat for a few hours unwinding, it was a great way to spend an afternoon....sipping on "Oscar winning" Italian beer ( according to the waiter).
We have just returned to our hotel to regroup, repack and get ready for our drive to Orvieto tomorrow. After spending 4 days watching how the Italians drive, this is going to be an interesting day. Heading out for our final dinner in Rome ...... Stay tuned

Villa Borghese Gardens

Beautiful walk around the park.

Friday, September 21, 2012

A COLOSSAL DAY

Woke up to another fabulous sunny day in Rome. Tom and I, and Jane and Donna headed off to our Colosseum tour after breakfast...what an awesome experience. Just being in this incredible building, walking where the great Caesars walked, and imagining everything that went on on that floor below, was unbelievable. I think back to my grade 7 social studies, and how interesting it was to learn about the Colosseum and the gladiators, the fascination has stuck with me ever since. I never dreamed back then that I would one day be lucky enough to touch those walls.
We also visited the Roman Forum.... Or what remains of it, seeing where Julius Caesar was cremated. We walked to the top of Palantine Hill, the spot where Rome began.
We hopped the city bus over to Trastevere.....an amazing part of the city across the Tiber river. We had a great lunch, Tom and I experiencing our first true Italian pizza and enjoyed some great wine . The four of us agreed that we have not met a bottle of wine we didn't like on this trip...what a good sign.
We visited the Santa Maria Church and Jane graciously went in and asked for forgiveness for all of us. What a good friend. We then found a lovely bar across from the church in a little cobblestone alley, and shared another good bottle of wine.....we were on a roll. Perhaps we will have to make another visit to Santa Maria's before we leave, but oh we are having fun!
We visited the Pantheon later in the afternoon, just an amazing building. It was built almost 2,000 years ago as a temple to all the gods . The dome is as high as it is wide, and open
to let natural light in,
there are holes in the marble floor for drainage when it rains.
Tom and I meandered along more narrow streets and squares and then caught the double decker bus for another spin around Rome as darkness fell and gave the city an even more magical feel.
Still full from lunch, but never too full to enjoy a gelato, we had dessert for dinner as we walked back to our hotel. What an amazing day. Heading to the Vatican tomorrow.....stay tuned.

Thursday, September 20, 2012

Palintine Hill - where the first Romans lived. Evidence has been found that dates back to 1000 BC

JUST ROMAN AROUND TOWN.....

Woke up to a beautiful blue sky today, so we took Jane's suggestion and toured the city on the hop on-hop off double decker bus. What an awesome adventure, this city is incredible. Everywhere you look is another piece of history. Can only imagine what is what like as all this amazing architecture was being built. We got off and meandered down cobblestone streets enjoying every bend in the road....and believe me there are lots of bends. I don't think this city has a single road that is straight for more than 2 blocks. We climbed the Spanish Steps and found a great spot to people watch. Also threw our coins in the Trevi Fountain, adding a few to the 800,000 euros that are thrown in annually....somebody was smart to start that tradition....tradition being that if you throw a coin over your left shoulder while wishing to return to Rome, it will come true. Tomorrow we are touring the Colosseum.....so looking forward to that. Stay tuned.....
Trevi Fountain, Tiber River, Piazza Vinezia Monument to Vittorio Emanuelle II, Colosseum